Aldo Conterno: A legacy of modern-traditional Barolo

Aldo Conterno (1931-2012) was a central figure in Barolo, establishing his eponymous winery, Poderi Aldo Conterno, in 1969 after parting ways with his brother Giovanni on the Giacomo Conterno estate. While rooted in his family's traditional winemaking practices, Aldo Conterno embraced certain modernist innovations, creating a style often described as a blend of tradition and modernity. He is widely regarded as one of Piedmont's most talented winemakers, with his wines consistently ranked among the region's finest.
Aldo Conterno's approach to Barolo production differed from his brother's strict traditionalism in a few key aspects. While he favored long aging in large Slavic oak barrels, a hallmark of traditional Barolo, he also adopted the modernist practice of shortening the maceration time during fermentation and pressing the skins earlier. This combination of techniques aimed to create wines that retained the powerful structure of traditional Barolo but with a greater depth of fruit.
The Poderi Aldo Conterno estate is located in Monforte d'Alba, with its vineyards located in the prestigious Bussia Soprana area, approximately 400 meters above sea level. The estate owns around 25 hectares (62 acres) of vineyard land in this famous cru. Among their most famous wines is the Barolo Bussia, produced from five hectares of prime vineyards in Bussia Soprano. These vineyards, spread over three separate plots with vines averaging 35-40 years old, yield Nebbiolo grapes of exceptional quality.
In addition to Barolo Bussia, Aldo Conterno is famous for his single-vineyard Barolos from the Romirasco, Cicala and Colonnello crus, all located in the Bussia area. First produced in 1971, Riserva Gran Bussia is a blend of fruit from these three vineyards (approximately 70% Romirasco, 15% Cicala and 15% Colonnelo) and is only produced in exceptional vintages. These single-vineyard expressions showcase the unique nuances of the Bussia terroir.
Winemaking at Aldo Conterno emphasizes meticulous vineyard management, now using organic methods. Harvesting is done manually with careful selection of grapes. Skin contact fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats, followed by aging in large Slavic oak barrels for extended periods, often up to 28 months for single vineyard Barolos. Riserva Gran Bussia undergoes an even longer aging process, including time in stainless steel and bottle before release.
Aldo Conterno's Barolos consistently receive high marks from wine critics. Barolo Bussia, for example, has garnered ratings in the low to mid-90s from publications such as Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, James Suckling, and Wine Spectator, praising its balance of power, finesse, and complexity. Single-vineyard Barolos, such as Colonnelo, also receive high praise, with critics noting their aromatic complexity, structure, and aging potential.
A distinctive feature of Aldo Conterno's wines is their harmonious blend of traditional structure with a more accessible fruit profile in their youth. Although capable of aging for decades, these Barolos often exhibit a certain elegance and finesse that make them enjoyable at an earlier age compared to some of their more austere traditional counterparts. Following Aldo's passing in 2012, his three sons, Franco, Stefano and Giacomo Conterno, continue to manage the estate, maintaining his legacy and commitment to producing exceptional Barolo.