Giacomo Conterno: The epitome of traditional Barolo
The Giacomo Conterno winery stands as a bastion of traditional Barolo production, renowned for crafting some of the most iconic and age-worthy wines in the Piedmont region. While the precise origins of the winery are debated, the Conterno family's involvement in winemaking in Monforte d'Alba dates back to the early 20th century, with Giacomo Conterno officially founding the estate in the 1920s after returning from World War I. Giacomo was the first in his family to bottle wine with the family name, marking the beginning of a legendary legacy.
The winery's flagship wine, the Barolo Riserva Monfortino, is considered one of Italy's greatest and most sought-after wines. First conceived in 1924, Monfortino embodies the ultra-traditional Conterno style, characterized by long maceration periods and extended aging in large Slavonian oak casks (botti) for six to seven years before bottling. This uncompromising approach allows the Nebbiolo grape to fully express its potential, resulting in wines of immense structure, complexity, and longevity.
In addition to Monfortino, Giacomo Conterno produces a "regular" Barolo, which is also made in a traditional style with four years of aging in large oak casks. Up until the 2014 vintage, both the Monfortino and the regular Barolo were sourced exclusively from the family's 14-hectare Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga d'Alba, a highly prized site purchased in 1974. The grapes for Monfortino are meticulously selected from the best parcels within this vineyard. Since 2015, the winery has also produced a Barolo Arione from a nine-hectare vineyard south of Serralunga, acquired that year. In 2008, they also purchased the three-hectare Cerretta cru in Serralunga d'Alba, planted with both Nebbiolo and Barbera.
The Giacomo Conterno winemaking philosophy remains deeply rooted in tradition, with minimal intervention and a focus on allowing the terroir to shine through. They favor long fermentations and aging in large, neutral oak barrels, avoiding the use of small barriques that could impart excessive oak influence. This patient approach results in wines that are powerful and structured yet also display remarkable finesse and elegance.
The Conterno family's vineyard holdings are primarily located in the prestigious Barolo zone of Serralunga d'Alba, known for producing wines with intense structure and longevity. The Cascina Francia vineyard, a monopoly (entirely owned by the estate) since 1974, is particularly significant, consistently yielding exceptional Nebbiolo fruit. The addition of the Cerretta and Arione vineyards has further expanded the estate's holdings in prime Barolo territory. In 2018, Roberto Conterno, the third-generation winemaker, also acquired the historic Nervi estate in Gattinara, expanding the family's winemaking endeavors beyond Barolo.
Giacomo Conterno's wines are consistently ranked among the finest in the world, with the Barolo Riserva Monfortino often receiving perfect or near-perfect scores from leading wine critics. Their other Barolos, including Cascina Francia, Cerretta, and Arione, also garner high praise for their quality, complexity, and expression of terroir. 25 These accolades underscore the estate's unwavering commitment to producing exceptional wines in a traditional style.
A defining characteristic of Giacomo Conterno is its steadfast adherence to traditional Barolo winemaking methods, passed down through generations. The estate's dedication to long aging in large oak casks and minimal intervention in the cellar results in wines that are powerful, structured, and capable of aging for decades, representing the purest expression of Nebbiolo and the unique terroir of Serralunga d'Alba. Roberto Conterno, who now leads the estate, continues to uphold his family's legacy, ensuring that Giacomo Conterno remains a benchmark for traditional Barolo for generations to come.
